Friday 23 November 2012

Colour Fade Out. All the info you need







So you've just spent god knows how much on a beautiful new hair colour. 5 washes on it's fading....WHY?


As a hairstylist, I ensure I use only the best colours available for my clients. I spend the time to analise the hair condition and compatibility to make sure that the colour will take best and stay put. Sometimes, however, colour can still fade. 
In this blog I'm going to tell you why this can happen and what you and I can do about it. It is in my best interest that my clients are walking around with top notch hair all the time, so I don't see this as a secret.

Colour fading can happen for a number of reasons.
1) Poor quality shampoo and conditioner has been used prior to colouring and after colouring. Most supermarket shampoos have a very high Ph level which will strip the colour from the hair - baby shampoo being one of the worst! They also contain non water soluble silicons which will literally coat and effectively laminate the hair, making it difficult for the colour to penetrate the hair shaft effectively. After colouring these will cause dehydration of the hair, which will again cause fading.
Rhianna keeps her red vibrant with regular in salon top ups
2) If you have gone from being very light, to dark or strong red or violet tones. Lightened hair has had alot of the protein stripped from the hair. It will "grab" the tone initially but it will "fall out" again quite quickly. Think of porous hair (lightened hair) as being like a sponge. It will suck it up pretty quick, but one squeeze and its gone.
3) Hormones, ill health, medication. These can all effect, not only how a colour will take, but how the hair will hold on to the colour. Hair is the last point of call for any sort of nutrients going into the body, so when we are under the influence of internal goings on, it can effect how the colour will take and hold.
4) Environmental influences. This horrid weather is no helper! Going from damp, cold and blustery outdoors to central heated indoors will dry the hair out. Dehydration of the hair causes fading too.

What can I do?
1) Use a good quality shampoo and conditioner. Its best to get one advised by your stylist. I find Pureology amazing for colour retention, and its organic, vegan and environmentally friendly. Beware of buying them cheaper over the Internet. They wont be guaranteed by the brand and there are an awful lot of fakes out there.
Glossy Darks need good condition
2) Porous hair needs to have protein put back in it. Most salons will offer a service where you can have weekly protein treatments to ensure that your hair is strong enough to hold the colour. 
3) Ensure you drink at least 2 litres of water a day ( no it doesn't count if its in your whiskey!!) and try taking a multi vitamin. I like to take Berrocca because I drink it with a large glass of water (2 birds - one stone ) and it tastes like Fanta!
4) Get your colour done professionally. More often than not, when you do a home colour, you whack colour over colour over colour. This will dry those ends out and cause a colour build up on the ends too, making them dull and brittle. If your budget is tight, most salons have a junior stylist using the same high quality colours, in a professional manner, at a fraction of the cost. Just ask your salon when you book your appointment if they have any juniors available.
5) Wear a hat if its blowing a gale out there. Serums can also help to rehydrate thirsty hair too.

6) When you have fading ends, you can have "toners" either in salon or you can buy them from your salon to top up at home. My personal favourites are Joico Colour intensity and Revlon Nutri colour. If you have fading reds, the Colour Intensity is fantastic for bringing back the vibrancy in between salon visits.
Ice White! Keep it in check at home with salon toners
Blondies may find that their beloved platinum blonde goes brassy over time ( I find this myself ) Personally I use the Revlon Nutri Colour Platinum toner for 5 minutes on washes, towel dried hair then condition. It keeps it looking really fresh. If you want SUPER cool blonde, use the Joico Colour Intensity Violet - but only use a pea sized amount mixed in with a 50p size of conditioner for up to 5 mins. It really is super strong!
You can have so much fun with toners. Brunettes will keep the glossy rich colour, Reds will keep the eye popping intensity, Coppers will keep their richness and Blondes will stay bright and clean. They range from £10 - £20 and contain between 5 and 15 applications (depending on the brand)


Joico Colour Intensity

Revlon Nutri colour












Have fun! mix up those toners!
 Blonde hair is especially fun. If you're feeling adventurous, have   a play with mixing more violet toner in to create a lilac look, or perhaps a dash of red in the conditioner for a baby pink?

 Toners wash out over time so go on, have a play!





Look after those locks - Its the frame to the beautiful picture that is you!

Tuesday 5 June 2012

The Perfect A Line

As timeless as the mini skirt. As functional as the classic 501's. As beautiful and strong as modern architecture. The A Line Bob is a classic style that can be adapted to suit many face shapes and hair textures. Originally cut in the 20's, but it was the legend Vidal Sassoon who brought it to life in the 60's with his pioneering "wash and wear" styles that were fashion forward, strong and still
feminine.


It may look simple, to cut all the hair one length, but it is one of the most technically difficult cuts to master, because there is absolutely no room for error. Every single hair has to be cut millimetre perfect and the length must compliment the face shape, features and hair textures. In my opinion, until you can cut the perfect bob, you cannot call yourself a stylist.

Face shapes and features are very important to the look of the bob. A large nose needs a soft fringe to draw the attention away. Square jaw lines need a longer length so as not to accentuate the harsh angles. Decide which face shape best describes yours and wheather you have prominent features you wish to accentuate or disguise.
Square face shapes suit longer lengths and asymmetrical fringes. Heart shape and Long faces suit fringes well, with Heart shapes looking great with Jaw Length cuts.
Oval face shapes can get away with pretty much anything!


Once cut, it is the easiest style to keep. If your hair is wavy, let it wave for texture, or blow it out to create swing and shine.

To blow dry a bob shampoo and condition your hair with good quality salon products. Use a lightweight styling lotion and mix a few drops of serum in to it. Apply evenly throughout towel dried hair and blow out some of the moisture. Next get a Denman brush and proceed to dry the hair by brushing it in different directions and pointing the dryer in the same direction. This is called "Wrap Drying" To wrap dry you direct the airflow along the lengths of your hair whilst brushing it in multiple directions 'wrapping' it around the head and scalp to build volume. The ends will turn under because you are wrapping it around the natural curve of the scalp. Its very important to use the same amount of strokes in each direction, for instance brush 5 times right, then 5 times left then 5 times down. Continue doing this all over the head until hair is completely dry, then you can smooth it under with your brush pointing the airflow down.

Now, you can of course just tip your head upside down, dry it, then straighten it. Nothing wrong with that, but if you have the time and biceps, give the Wrap a go. The shine and movement is beautiful









Colour wise, one shiny colour really compliments the shape of the bob. Be it a glossy chocolate or a shiny honey blonde, with maybe a few slightly differing tones going through to add movement. Above all, its all about the condition. Healthy hair is needed for the most beautiful bob. Cleanse and condition it well with good quality products, and your bob will keep you looking effortlessly classy and enviously fashionable.

The classic Bob cut always has, and always will be one of my most favourite styles to cut. There is no hiding behind texture and "choppyness", it's all about the technical side of the cut. Its simple and classy. It has been worn for decades and will be worn for many decades to come.









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Tuesday 17 April 2012

Hair loss - A fine point?

In my profession I am often approached by clients experiencing some sort of hair loss. It's incredibly common, and can be very distressing for the sufferer. I am not a trichologist or a health professional and should stress that major concerns regarding hair loss should be talked through with your GP as it could be linked with medication and/or underlying health conditions.
However, Ive seen a lot and read a lot in my 16 years in this industry and here's what I know.

Hair loss comes in many forms and can have a number of causes.

Alopecia Areata - Small bald patches on the scalp and/or beard. These can occur fairly quickly. It is thought that genes may play some part, and there is also strong evidence to suggest that the condition is linked to an auto immune disorder. It can last for a period of months, to a year. In rarer cases it may not grow back at all. It can also grow back, and then after months or years, fall out again. Unfortunately very little can be done to re-grow the hair. The sufferer can have injections of cortisone in to the affected area, or the GP may prescribe oral medication for extensive hair loss, but there are no guarantees to their effectiveness. The best cause of action is to find a good hairdresser to give you a style that will best disguise it. The worst thing you can do is worry about it! Easier said than done, I know, but honestly its amazing what a good cut will hide!

Traction Alopecia - This is where hair loss is caused by the hair literally being pulled from the follicle. Generally caused by wearing hair up in tights ponytails and such but can also be caused by the prolonged wearing of hair weaves, clip in in extensions and poorly applied extensions. I have also seen this type of alopecia caused by young girls getting in fights! They always go for the hair! There are tonics available on the market that can stimulate the follicle in to active growth which helps the sufferer to grow the hair back reasonably quick, and in my experience can actually be quite effective, but expensive! The best cure is prevention. No tight up do's all the time, no dodgy extensions - get them done by a well trained professional, and no fighting ( or at least wear you hair back to do this!)

Alopecia Totalis - Total loss of hair on the scalp. Its causes are not clear but again its thought to be linked with auto immune disorders. Stress is also thought to be a factor, but just because you're stressed doesn't mean you'll get it. If you lead a stress free life (though i have never met anyone this lucky!) It doesn't mean you wont get it either! Your GP may suggest cortisone injections and oral medication, though don't bank on their effectiveness. Its an extremely distressing condition, and self perpetuating with all the stress. I would suggest that you either do a Gail Porter and embrace it, or go to a wig maker who will custom make a wig for you. Make sure you go to a good one and be prepared to spend the money - its worth it for a good quality one. Try contacting Emma at www.aspire-hair.co.uk She will help you out :-) she knows her follicles!

Telogen Alopecia/ Telogen Effluvium - The most prominent of alopecia causes. Its actually really common, and alot of sufferers may not even know they are suffering from it, they may just notice that their hair is thinner than usual, or simply not growing. You may notice an unusual amount of shedding - clogging up the shower! It can occur all over the scalp, or just in certain places. Its caused by a number of things including poor diet, stress, hormonal changes, physical trauma and medication. Generally it only last for 6 - 12 months and then will recover spontaneously, but the sufferer should eliminate any of the above causes to ensure a quick recovery. Tonics are available on the market that stimulate the follicle on to active growth and are generally effective so its worth giving them a go if you're worried about it. Its not permanent and there is no evidence to suggest you may have repeated attacks. Its more common in women than in men ( we clearly have more stress in our lives )

Male Pattern Baldness/ Female Pattern Hair Loss - Thinning tends to begin at the temples and front hair line. Its causes tend to be hereditary. So if your dad went bald, you may well too. However, all is not lost! You may skip the cycle and have a full head of hair in your 80's! Tonics such as Minoxidil are probably the most effective form of treatment but again, there are no guarantees. Its important to understand that these tonics can only do so much. If you are already bald, they can not give you a full head of hair. They can work only for as long as you are using them, once stopped hair loss will resume. It's most effective to use them at the onset of thinning. Regrowth can take 8 - 12 months.
Pills are also available that contain Finasteride, and I have seen some great results but they are often very pricey and hair loss will again resume once you stop taking them. Consult your stylist to find a great cut and colour to help disguise this hair loss too. Don't be embarrassed to speak about it, we see it ALL the time.

Whatever you do, DON'T do a Donald Trump! He only gets away with it because he's a billionaire.......









If you are experiencing unusual thinning of your hair it is important to get it checked out by your GP. Some causes, such as Thyroid problems, hormonal problems, auto immune disorders and Iron deficiencies can cause thinning and need to be diagnosed accordingly to ensure the best treatment.

Sunday 25 March 2012

Headlice - The Nitty Gritty

Yes, I'm going to talk about Head lice ( cue dramatic cliff hanger music, and gasp for effect )
It baffles me that as long as there have been humans, there have been head lice and yet we are still so unwilling to discuss it. Like its dirty or something.
Well I'm going to clear a few things up, drop the stigma and squash some myths, because I'm not afraid to talk about anything, and I'm sure this will help many parents out.

Head lice have no prejudice to how clean your hair is. They couldn't give a monkeys. As long as you have a scalp to bite and suck from, and a hair shaft to cradle their eggs, they are happy. If you were told by your mother "Lice only like clean hair" I'm sorry to tell you that your mother was misinformed, and probably trying to make you feel better. Everyone has probably had head lice at one time or another, and they are no less common, and no less likely than a cold or flu.

The most likely to catch head lice are school age girls because they have long hair and tend to play closer to other children, making it more likely for lice to get on to their hair. Boys are less likely to catch them due to the fact their hair us usually short, and they're more likely to kick a ball, then cuddle their mates! Although, they can still pick them up, especially if they are budding wrestlers!

Common Myths
"Head lice can jump". No. Fleas can jump. Fleas aren't head lice. Head lice can only crawl, and can only be caught by direct contact.
"head lice only like dirty hair" Nope. They don't care. And it doesn't make it harder for the eggs to stick if your hair is greasy, it would have to be a literal oil slick to prevent this, and lets face it, if you're letting your kid out with hair like that, you have bigger issues that I'm not qualified to deal with...
"head lice only like clean hair" NO. Regular washing will help to wash out any lice, but will not get rid of any eggs.
"olive oil is best to get rid of lice"....not really, although Olive oil is good to smother the hair in, and then use a nit comb to get rid of lice and eggs, it will not kill the eggs. So if one is left in the hair, you will have another 10 in a week!

Best tips for getting rid of head lice.
Check your child every other day. Check well, and check behind the ears and at the nape, as this is the preferred place for egg laying.
If you spot any use something like "Hedrin once". Its a really thick oil that suffocates the lice and the egg by covering the breathing hole. Leave it on for 15 mins then use a nit comb to get as many of the little blighters out as possible! Don't worry, the nits are dead! Pesticides are more ineffective now, as lice are like roaches and have built up a resistance to them.
Check the entire family. If necessary, treat them with the lotion too. It doesn't take long and isn't smelly like it used to be, nor do you have to sleep with it in, so in my view, you may as well do the family as a matter of course.
Tell the school! Your child caught the lice from somewhere, so parents need to know to check their children!
Wash all bedding, hats and clean all brushes. Lice can live for up to 3 days off the scalp.
Don't let your child share brushes or hats or anything that touches the head, with other children.
Please check your child before any hair appointments, or warn us if your child has has Nits! Though if you are unsure wether they have a case of head lice, call your salon and ask they're advice. I personally, would be happy to help my clients diagnose a case, if it meant it wouldn't go untreated.
Above all, don't be ashamed. It says nothing of your social standing nor your hygiene if you, or your child has Nits. I mean, I'll bet good money the Queen's had them.... ( god I hope I don't get beheaded for saying that....)

Signing off now......my head is itching.....I'm sure its psychological ;-)



Friday 16 March 2012

Advice for "Salon-Phobics". How to trust your stylist

Its actually fairly common, you know, to be scared of us Hairdressers. I can understand it, we are normally pretty confident things, and therefore may seem overbearing. Some are also guilty of being a little up their own arse, to the point that they completely ignore you and just do what they feel like to your hair, regardless of your wishes. And lets face it, when someone is brandishing a weapon in the form of scissors and telling you they know your hair better than you, you would be forgiven for sinking in to your chair and meekly saying "whatever you think".......
I think everyone on the planet has had a bad Hairdresser experience - mine was my mother. Without fail, the night before every school photograph I would look up from my beans on toast and there she would be - looming over me with a pair or "hairdressing" scissors she inherited from my grandmother (who used to be a hairdresser in the 50's so you can imagine what these scissors were like!!)
"Right. Lets cut your hair" Oh God, no. "Mum, I don't want it short, just take a bit off"  "Ill do what I thinks best madam!!"
Alas, there are no school photo's of me with beautiful long blonde locks, they are all of me sporting an iffy looking bowl cut that looks like the fringe had been chewed off by a hamster.


I think that this has made me more sympathetic as a hairdresser. Its possibly the cause of my wanting to be a hairdresser in the first place. I vowed I would learn about hair and redeem my dodgy cut status in my later years. And, above all, my kids would have really cool hair ;-)


So, here's some advice on how to ensure you get the best from your visit to the hairdressers, and leave with the hair you actually want.
1) Choose your salon and stylist carefully. Do your research. Is the salon reputable and does it come recommended? Is it cheap? You tend to pay for what you get, and cheaper salons will not have the funding to re invest in products and training. If you see someone who's hair you love, ask them where they got it cut, they'll be flattered and you'll have got a good tip off! When trying a new salon, most good ones will offer you a free consultation. Don't be afraid to ask for this. It's not committal for you and gives you the opportunity to get a feel for the salon and stylist.
2) Know what you like and what you don't like. I know this sounds odd, but I have had many a client who has sat in front of me and answered all of my questions with "I don't really know". Take in pictures of styles and colours you like, even if its just the fringe in one picture, or the colour of another. This really helps your stylist to understand YOUR perception of your hair, and will help you to get in tune with each other.
3) Do not expect to look exactly like the picture. We have scissors and tint brushes - not magic wands -and whilst we can give you the colour of Jennifer Anniston, we cant actually turn you in to her!
4) Speak up! Be honest and confident. Tell us what you hate about your hair, and also what you love about it. If we know this, we can enhance what you love and remedy what you don't.
5) Be honest! If you haven't had it cut in 6 months, or have used home colour, we need to know! You may well get a raised eyebrow, because you know that's naughty, but we really need to know in order to assess correctly what needs to be done to achieve your desired look. If you have been using home colour, please don't lie about it, it really affects how our salon colour turns out! Also, if you have been using dodgy cheap products, don't be ashamed to tell us, but do expect to be told about correct aftercare for your hair. We're not trying to give you the hard sell, just ensuring your hair looks salon perfect for as long as possible.
5) If you love the salon you go to, but would like to try another stylist within the salon, tell them! Personally, in my salon, we operate a "free roam policy" so clients can feel free to have any stylist they choose, without feeling disloyal or pressured to stay with the same stylist. We understand its nice to get a different view on your hair, and sometimes you may want one stylist to colour your hair, and another to cut it.
6) Remember, its YOUR hair. Not the stylists! I often joke with my clients that they relinquish ownership of their hair when they sit in my chair, but these are the clients who truly know and trust me. We have built up a strong relationship, to the point that they feel completely comfortable not actually having a clue what I am going to do to their hair, but are safe in the knowledge it will be awesome! After all, my clients are my adverts, and they know I would never let them leave looking less than perfect. On the flip side, they know I would never be offended if they didn't like it, and would have no problem in rectifying it if this were the case.

As Stylists, our job is to make your hair look great, and above all else to make you feel fantastic. A visit to the salon should be indulgent, relaxing and renewing. Don't be scared, no stylist wants you to be unhappy, and with these tips and a little effective communication you need never be unhappy again :-)

Sunday 11 March 2012

Home Hair Colour vs Salon Colour

Many people colour their hair at home. You get a bee in your bonnet and whip down to the supermarket and buy a box colour then whack it on at home. We have all done it, me included. When I was a teenager I used to use a lightener on my naturally blonde hair. I know the feeling well - the excitement of ripping open the box. Completely ignoring the safety instructions. Popping the colour on, then washing it off after the alloted time with excitement....then drying it, with that increasing "sicky" feeling in my tummy as I notice I have orange roots and suspiciously green looking ends....dear God, if I knew then what I know now......

So whats the difference between a home colour and a salon professional service? Where do I start?!
Firstly home colours, though essentially made of the same stuff as salon colours, are made to cover a more generic hair type. They tend to have a very high volume of peroxide so that they can easily lighten even much darker hair. This really isn't good for the condition of your hair, and will affect future colouring, as you will have to treat the regrowth differently to the coloured hair.
Salon colours will be tailored to your hairs individual needs, and will be much kinder to your hair, protecting its integrity by using the correct amount of peroxide that your hair requires.


Hands up who does a patch test every time they use a home colour? Be honest! There have been many cases of people using home colours and suddenly developing sensitivity. This can lead to awful side effects, that can require hospitalisation. Some sad cases have even resulted in Death. I don't mean to scare monger, but I must stress the importance of a patch test, even when using home colour. Its just not worth the risk.


All salons are required by law to perform a patch test on a new colour client. If colour brands are changed, a patch test must be performed again.  We dont just do it to annoy you, I promise! It takes a few minutes, but worth it. If your salon is happy to do your colour without patch testing you first......don't do it!


I have done so many colour corrections from home hair colour its unreal. If I had a pound for every time I heard the sentence "it said dark brown on the box, but its turned out black!!" Its not the fault of the consumer, how are you supposed to know?
 But I can tell you, if you got a brown felt tip pen and coloured a WHITE piece of paper, would it be the same as if you coloured a RED piece of paper? Colour results very much depend on what the natural base is. Its not a simple as whacking it on, then 40 minutes later having the locks of Eva Longoria.... Hairdressers are extensively trained in the science of colour, and know how to mix bespoke cocktails of colour and peroxide specific to YOUR hair.
We don't just stand around talking about holidays and the weather you know ;-) well, not all the time anyway...

To be honest, the main issue with home colouring is in the application. Generally, when you colour your hair at home, you see your roots come through and pop the box dye on all over.
Its getting to the roots right? maybe so, but what's it doing to the rest of your hair?
Get that felt tip pen out again. Colour in a square on paper, then do it again adding a bit on the top, then again, and again making sure you are going over the original bit too. Light top and very dark, if not annihilated bottom???
Same thing in hair. You are building up pigment on the ends, that will cause it to be dry, dull, brittle and way darker (or lighter, if using a lightening tint) than your roots!

 In a salon, your stylist will apply to your roots first, then refresh the ends as he or she sees fit, using their technical knowledge to guide them as to what your hair requires.

"But salon colours are so expensive!" Yes, they cost more than £6.99 this is true, but you are paying for a bespoke service and colour that is applied safely and correctly all the while being entertained and waited on and and foot by highly trained proffesionals. You're not just paying for the tube of tint!
Besides that, have you ever spent an entire sunday, applying box colour upon box colour to your hair because it's just not turning out right? Did you end up having to get it fixed in a salon? Did you end up spending twice as much?????
 I am an ambassador for low maintenance hair I assure you! I have 2 children and a business to run, and have bills to pay like everyone else. But I don't even attempt to paint my own nails, I pay someone who knows what they're doing because I will get the result I want, without panicing that I have made a total hash of it!

 If you have a salon colour you can work with your stylist to create your perfect look, that will be as low maintenence as you require - and if you don't like it, you at least have some come back! We are here to make you look the best we possibly can with a tint brush (not to be mistaken for a  magic wand ).

Like I said before, If I knew then what I know now....I would of happily payed a professional £30 to do my roots, then risk £6.99,(paid it) orange roots,(had them) broken ends (snapped to hell) and an allergic reaction on a home colour (narrowly avoided thank goodness).


Monday 5 March 2012

A Whiter Shade of Grey

In this blog we will be addressing the "age old" (sorry ;-) topic of GREY!

Again, my aim here is to highlight a few of the myths and set the record straight about what can and cant be done with grey hair.

I will start by letting you in to a little secret......there is no such thing as grey hair. No, honestly. So next time someone refers to those little sprinklings of natural highlights as grey, you have my permission to correct them! Hair only has the effect of "grey" when it is against darker hair. You don't see many natural blondes with salt and pepper coloured hair do you?
Hair simply looses its pigment altogether and turns white. There you go, myth one squashed.  You don't have grey hair, ok? Feel better? No? Ok well read on......

Hair is pigmented by the same thing that pigments our skin. Melanin. The darker our skin is naturally, the darker our hair tends to be. Natural blondes tend to have a fairer complexion, whilst brunettes may have more olive skin.
As we age, our levels of melanin diminishes. Our skin becomes lighter, and unfortunately, so does our hair.
There are many theories on why this happens, including links between stress, DNA and genetics. My personal theory (which I should add has had no medical research involved, it is a mere thought!) is that as we age, and our body tires, it has far more important things to worry about than the pigment of our hair, such as knackered joints, general lethargy, and the stress of waiting for the kids to finally move out.... 

There is a stigma about "grey" hair that irks me. Its that its ugly, and unsightly. As a hairdresser I have to admit that a large part of my work is covering greys, but if the grey hair is beautiful, which it truly can be, I would - and actually have - refused to colour it. I have seen beautiful silvers, steels and whites that I believe would be sacrilegious to colour over!
However, some grey really does need hiding, and this I have no problem in doing!

Some myths about "greys"
"if you pull one out, twenty more grow back in its place" Think about it. Really. If you pulled any hair out, would twenty more grow back? Is the secret to thinning hair (to be covered in another blog soon) to actually pull it all out then? Actually, if you pull out a grey hair, it damages the follicle making it grow back crinkly and wiry. This hair will also tend to stand up from the rest of your hair, making it seem as though you suddenly have lots more!
Best just let it grow down.
"hair can turn grey overnight" Yes, and your skin can also turn dark brown overnight too....
this is, of course, not true. Melanin is diminished over time and it is physically impossible for it to turn literally overnight, no matter how shocked you were about your last phone bill!
"only old people turn grey" Grey hair does tend to grow through the older you get, however it is still possible for the greying process to happen when you are very young. It is not clear why, but there are links with DNA and genetics about this.If your parents went grey early, it is likely you will too, though not definite.


"grey hair is ugly" ummmmmmm George Clooney???? Meryl Streep??? I rest my case.











So what can you do about your greying hair?
As hair turns white, the texture often changes. It is impossible to predict how it may grow through, but one things for sure - you will have to get to know it all over again!
It tends to be drier, so more nourishing products will be needed.
It tends to be coarser, so more smoothing products and tools such as irons, will be needed to create a smoother finish.
It tends to be a little trickier to colour and perm, so this really must be done by a professional who knows how to deal with it.
There have been many studies done on grey hair, finding links between Vitamin B12 and Foilic Acid taken in supplements that have slowed the greying process, but there is no hard evidence on this. There is however exciting research that is ongoing in the U.S regarding a protein called Wnt and its ability to reverse the greying process.....watch this space!

If you are one of the lucky ones, who's greying hair is much like that of Helen Mirren's silky silver locks, then count yourself a trend setter! Its one of the hottest looks right now and steely grey hair is even being imitated by the young stars of today!

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Monday 27 February 2012

Styling Your Hair.


After reading my last post, I'm sure you are all now using a salon shampoo and conditioner, and using it correctly ;-) If you're still unsure of what to get, I can recommend Pureology and Joico. I use them in my salon and swear by them. They contain more natural and organic ingredients and are much more concentrated, making them last longer.

So, your hair is clean, and BLOTTED dry, and you are sat at your dressing table thinking "ok Jo, what now?!"....
I'm going to tell you...
Firstly, styling your hair needs to begin with using the right styling product for you and your style. For example, I have spoken to many people before who have complained of having dry frizzy hair, then have told me that they either use mousse, or nothing.......erm, there you go then...
Everyone, every hair, every style needs a product before styling. It will fight humidity, maintain the style, and protect it from heat and elements. But its getting the right one.
It's really worth investing in a salon product. You will probably only purchase it every 4 - 6 months, and you will be safe in the knowledge you are using the best one for what you want to achieve. Don't be afraid to use more than one product either. you can layer products, just don't use too much.

If your hair is fine and limp, and you want body, go for a volumising foam. Avoid mousses as they can feel a little sticky and it becomes harder to pass your brush through your hair. Thickening lotions are good too as well as sprays but for big bouncy hair, foam is best. Apply the size of a golf ball for medium hair, half again for longer hair. Put it in both your hands and scrunch in, then rub the remainder in to the roots, paying attention to the roots on top. Stick your head upside down and dry it till its very nearly dry. You can then turn the hat on your dryer down, section your hair off and use a big round brush for the rest, or if you are not very good at this, invest in a hot air brush, which will do the same, without the need to dislocate your arms!
Velcro rollers are also amazing for volume. Whack them in dry, warm hair and leave them for as long as you like, but at least 15 mins. If you want to use the irons too, don't straighten the root!

Thick, coarse hair that you want sleek and smooth? Well you really need to be using a creamy product to moisturise. Argan oils are great too as they not only quench thirsty hair, they cut down the drying time but about 40%. They will leave your hair soft and smooth. If you're using irons too, you need to use a thermal protector as well. Apply about the size of a 10p in the same way you would conditioner. You can add more if you feel you need to, but don't overdo it. Don't apply to the roots. Spray on a thermal protector. 8-10 pumps is fine. Dry your hair by pointing your dryer downwards. This points the airflow down, and smooths the cuticle to help it stay shiny. Use a paddle brush to dry as this will help to straighten it too.  Have the heat up high to begin with, then turn it down when the hair is just damp. If you are using the Straightening Irons, only do so when your hair is 100% dry. Section your hair to straighten. Try attacking it full on, and you will end up going over the same bits again and again, and will end up with pretty damaged hair. Take 4 sections straight across. 1 -below the ear, 2- above the ear, 3- temples and 4 - top section.
Serums are great on wet hair as well as dry hair for extra shine.

Natural curls? Believe it or not, even if your hair has just a slight wave to it, you can get a pretty good curl in it if you dry it the right way. This is where mousses and gels work great. Apply a golf ball size of mousse through damp hair. Twizze sections of hair, about half an inch square, around your fingers to promote a natural wave or curl. Do this all the way through in sections, then dig out your diffuser you probably got with your dryer but never used and pop it on your your dryer. Tip your head upside down and gently cup it in the diffuser, but make sure you don't hold it in one place for too long. When its almost dry, and all the blood has gone to your head, flick your head up and do the same to the back, tilting your head backwards. Try not to handle your hair much as this will cause it to frizz up. Do this until your hair is 100% dry. Any moisture left in your hair will make the style drop and cause it to frizz. Serums are great to smooth through damp hair before applying mousse too, for extra shiny curls.

I know I have only covered a few hair types here, but I think it's the majority, so I hope it is of some use.

Stay tuned for more blogs coming up......there's loads left to tell you!

Happy Hairstyling :-)



Saturday 25 February 2012

So whats the big deal with "products"....?

So, this is my first blog in The Hair Care Bible, and I have chosen to talk about products.
Why? Because first and foremost, beautiful hair starts with how you clean it!
I've always been a high retailer in all the salons I have worked in. Not because I'm intent on making commission, and not just because I'm ridiculously competitive and have to be better than everyone else.... I'ts because I work hard to make my clients hair beautiful and I want to ensure it stays beautiful until the next time I see them. After all, that hair has my name on it!

I dont "sell" I "prescribe"

"Arn't all shampoos the same?"
NO! Many high street shampoos and conditioners contain sulphates and parabens that break down and destroy the keratin in the hair. Keratin is what your hair is made up of, and to break it down would compromise not only the condition of the hair, but also fade the colour.

"Pantene, Herbal Essences, Elvive, (insert name of iffy supermarket shampoo marketed by overpaid celebrities whom I GAURANTEE do not use the product) make my hair all shiny"
Thats because they coat your hair in layers of non water soluble silicon that make it seem shiny, but it's effectivly been laminated! Head itch after a while? That will be the silicon building up on your scalp. Hair feel lank after a few uses? Thats because it's so heavy. Colour not taking properly.....Try tanning through factor 50, it's the same thing! Getting dandruff, and probably then using Head and Shoulders (equally iffy stuff as it does the same as the rest!)? That will be the layers of silicon flaking off then.
So with all these "ailments" who gets the blame? Who's blamed if the colour isn't taking properly? Your stylist!
So whilst I may be passionate about products, It's simply because I want my clients hair at its best ALL the time.

If you're using a good salon shampoo and conditioner, you only need a small amount as it is so concentrated. A bottle should last you a good 80 shampoos.

How to clean your hair.
To clean your hair effectively, really wet your hair. Put about a 20p size of shampoo in your palms and rub together. Sweep it over your hair and rub it in. It may not lather to begin with, it's just absorbing the impurities. Carry on then rinse, and repeat if you feel you want a bit of bubble! It will bubble the second time, as it's already clean.
To condition effectvely, squeeze the excess moisture from your hair and apply the same anount of conditioner through the mid lengths and ends. Leave for a minute and rinse well. Rinse really well. Then rinse it some more.

Never rub your hair dry, this will rough up the cuticle and promote the dreaded frizz! Just blot with the towell. Never brush your hair when it's wet, it's weaker at this time and more easily broken. Only use a wide tooth comb.

Then proceed to style....ah but that's another story.......